Where the Commune of Monforte is can be known for massively structured wines, we have seen a number of makers producing beautiful, fine Barolo from the Commune. Ginestra is one of the greatest Cru’s of Monforte. Paolo Conterno’s is a demonstration of grace under pressure.

Layered with earth, tea, a little hint of truffle, and a dash of flowers. It remains elegant, lining up fine tannins, with a deceptive core of fruit. Drinking one over three days saw it lengthen and build. I suspect the reviewers that tried it at the beginning of the year would be lifting the points on this one now it’s had time to resolve.

A demonstration on how shifts in making and viticulture with a climate change overlay are seeing wines of approachability come from regions historically seen as very tough.