The 2019 Barolo Cerretta, Revello's one wine from Serralunga, packs plenty of punch. The flavors are richer and darker than in the La Morra Barolos. Black cherry, incense, gravel, smoke, cured meats and licorice add to an impression of somber intensity. Give this strapping Barolo a few years to soften. Antonio Galloni

Piedmont